Monday 7 March 2016

Italy - A Trip to Florence

The Cathedral

Another thing I’d promised myself, in addition to visiting Idette, was to go to Florence while I was in Europe again. I’d been years ago on a work trip, but hadn’t really had the chance to see it other than to know that I’d like to go back. I’d planned to meet Geraldine at Florence airport on Wednesday night. I bumped into a former colleague (Julian) at the airport gate; he was just off to a congress in Florence. Zurich can be very small at times.

After my Dubai trip, travelling by economy seemed a bit of a let down. Nevertheless, my luck was in. Although my flight landed in Florence 15 minutes late, Geraldine’s flight from Gatwick came 30 minutes early, so in the end we arrived at around the same time and I didn’t have to hang around 45 minutes at Florence to wait for her as originally planned.

It was weird to see and hear Italian again. I’d learned it maybe 30 years ago for two years but haven’t really had much to do with the language since then. It’s beautiful and hearing it made me feel quite nostalgic. Watching all the expressive hand movements was also entertaining!

We managed to get a taxi without a problem, although I’m so used to taxi drivers in Hurghada that I found it difficult to believe that it was a fixed fare and that we didn’t have to haggle. It was the same on the way back – the hotel ordered a taxi for me, said it was “Barcelona 14” but instead a taxi named “Milano 11” came along saying he was the replacement. In Egypt, taxi drivers try tricks like this all the time to take the business for themselves, so I was sceptical. However, Geraldine persuaded me it would be fine (she wasn't leaving until the next day). It was and he did try to explain again (in Italian) that he was the replacement as he drove along, but by this time my fascination was drawn back to the fact that a fixed fare was flashing and I didn’t have to haggle.

I didn’t remember much of Florence at all. At the market, I suddenly remembered that I’d been disappointed when I’d tried to buy a leather jacket before, because I’d discovered it was just the shopkeeper behind the market stall who was actually selling them (I’d liked the idea of buying from the market rather than a shop at the time). I also remembered the queues at the Uffizi Gallery, which stopped me from going as I didn’t have the time. This time, we booked a tour in advance.

I hadn’t really appreciated how large the Uffizi was or just how many very famous pieces of art it contains. We had a two hour tour, although half an hour of this was still spent queuing, much to my surprise. I was also caught unawares at how fast the guide would move on to the next item (sometimes a few rooms away). I almost lost the group after the first painting not realizing that they’d all rushed on. Still, he needed to do this to have a chance of showing us the bare highlights. It was well worth having the tour.

Most of our time in Florence seemed to be spent climbing steps – up the cathedral dome (I hadn’t realized that a dome was difficult to build!), up the tower, up the floors of various museums, up and down the hills of the Boboli Gardens, up the hotel stairs… it was a holiday of aching calves!

I hadn’t realized that Florence was famous for its steaks; they were succulent and tender and among the best I’d tasted (and were also huge, often being sold by the kg). That will remain a highlight for me.

Statues adorned every corner of the city and I wondered whether the Florentines missed them when they visit other cities. The people were extraordinarily friendly and helpful; it was a joy to be there. Their favored mode of transport seemed to be motorbikes, which could wind their way through the narrow roads with no problem. There’d be whole rows of motorbikes parked by the side of the road. It’s not often these days that I find somewhere I think I’d like to live (I used to think this all the time about everywhere), but Florence would definitely be on the list.

The cathedral and baptistery were striking, as were the other buildings that mimicked their style on the front façade but not on the rest of the buildings. Museums abounded almost to the same extent as the statues (although, really, the statues won by far!).

And I have to say a quick word about the Davanzati Hotel where we stayed – it was great. They had a happy hour with free prosecco each evening (for the entire hour), so you could chat with other guests. It made it feel homely and sociable. I hope one day I can return!

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