Europe - Christmas

Freiburg - Christmas Decorations

One good thing about being in Switzerland when the weather's cold is that at least I get to experience all the Christmas festivities. Although Egypt tries to do what it can for the tourists, it's not the same as having to push your way through people to look at the wares, seeing people laden with shopping, and smelling the gluehwein from the stalls as you walk past.

It's also something that's probably a bit different from country to country within Europe (setting aside the fact that some people celebrate on 24th Dec, others on 25th Dec, others on 6th Jan, and for some 6th Dec is also important).

The idea of a Christmas market with little huts selling artistic wares originates, I think, from Germany, but is now growing in popularity in Switzerland and even in the UK. Since I was last in Zurich, the Christmas market by the opera house has grown dramatically in size. There's a huge choice of places to grab a snack (my chocolate and pear strudel was really more than a snack!) and a great choice of wares from traditional Christmas items (candles, decorations, wooden nutcracker men, wooden roundabouts) to any variety of other things (gifts from recycled materials, shawls, pottery, hats, knitware, novelty items).

There are several things that are peculiar to Zurich - a huge Christmas tree (and Christmas market) in the main station decorated with Swarowski crystals (only in Switzerland!) and a singing Christmas tree. This latter is a Christmas trees with platforms hidden in it for choirs - usually children, but not only children - to stand on and sing Christmas songs from around 6pm to 8pm, I think. All around you have wooden stalls selling gluehwein, raclette, or other stodgy and unhealthy foods. It's always crowded but that's part of the atmosphere. There are little circular tables where you can huddle round with your food and your gluehwein or you can just stand and watch them singing while trying to keep warm.

I nipped back to the UK for a weekend to visit my brother and I packed this full of Christmas things that are unique to, or at least typical for, the UK. Mince pies, turkey and cranberry pie and the non-Christmas, but essential fish and chips. I can remember returning to the UK one Christmas and the culture shock on hearing people joking in the train about Christmas parties, hangovers, being sick, and planning the next celebratory evening out. You don't hear that in Switzerland! But it was good natured and sociable and the sense of anticipation was tangible. I don't like Christmas cake or Christmas pudding, so those weren't on my agenda, but it was good to see them in the shops and to remind myself of my roots.

And then just this weekend I had a trip to Freiburg in Germany to meet up with Holger and Emil and also just to spend some time enjoying the town and reacquainting myself with it. As is the theme for this year, luck was on my side, because I left Zurich in fog and arrived in Freiburg to see 17 degrees and bright sunshine. I love Freiburg. It's a charming town and I'd forgotten how large it is (for a relatively small place) and how easy it was to get a little lost once you started diverting yourself down the little side streets. The Christmas market was good, but extraordinarily busy and I didn't have the patience for pushing my way through to see all of the stalls. The emphasis there seemed to be more on natural produce (pure honey, raw wood, drinks). The town was very prettily decorated - not ostentatious, but somehow looked as if all the shops had taken care and pride in how they decorated.

So, I haven't done too badly. I've experienced Christmas in three countries this year to get my fill of the experience. I've still to endure the bitter cold that you would normally expect at this time, so I guess my luck will run out in 2016. Still, I've enjoyed it while it's lasted!