Japan - Working Trip

 

Me and some of the Japanese Team in front of cherry blossom, Kumakura

 

 

Well, I’m busy here in Japan and don’t really have time to write my blog, but I’ll just jot down the things that surprise me about Japan, or at least things I’d forgotten about Japan:

1. Lots of people wear masks
2. The toilets are sophisticated – seats are heated, you can play music (on some), there’s a bidet function and a splash function; however, they still also have the crouch toilets (you don’t see these at all in the UK, Switzerland, or Germany, as far as I know).
3. The Japanese like to drink! I thought that because they are so rule-driven, they would not ever drink more than the number of recommended units. However, they are a party people!
4. You get a hand towel with every meal, even on a visit to Starbucks.
5. The air in Tokyo was much cleaner than I was expecting it to be.
6. They all eat with chopsticks (yes, I’d forgotten!)
7. They laugh a lot and are extremely hospitable
8. Linked to the above, they watch your reactions and react accordingly – I’ve realized that my face gives more away than I realise!
9. Maybe I’ve been lucky, but the metro hasn’t been as busy as I expected. Maybe it’s because I’m a little late by Japanese standards and so miss the worst
10. Despite hierarchy, the entire office was open plan; it all looked a bit crowded to me!
11. Gift-giving is part of the culture and I had forgotten, much to my embarrassment.

Hopefully a more extensive blog next week!

Zurich - Preparing for my Travels

Zurich - Boats Closed!

My swan song at work is a trip to Japan to handover my job to the Japanese team. This might sound all very exciting, but it comes with its own problems (some self-inflicted, admittedly).

One problem is that the Japanese stint is pretty close to my departure date for Egypt, the handover of my Swiss flat, and all that goes with it.

Another problem was that my credit card expires at the end of March and I hadn’t received a replacement. Since my Japan trip runs into April and I have to pay my expenses on my card and then claim back, I needed the new card.

I emailed to request that they send me a replacement card to my Zurich address. To my surprise, they replied to say they had my address down as Egypt. I have a clear memory of changing my address to Zurich as I knew the card was due to be renewed while I was in Switzerland. However, I looked on the website and indeed my address was Egypt.I couldn’t argue with what was in front of my eyes.

I changed my address on my account (even though I will need to change it back again in 2 weeks’ time) and got them to agree to send it to me by express post (I have to say, they were very good in this respect).

Meanwhile, I tried to book my flight to Egypt and a hotel in Zurich for the two nights before my Egypt flight (as I can’t sleep in the flat once I’ve washed the sheets), but my payment was refused. Unknown to me, my current card had been cancelled in the mean time!

Then, of course, the new card was delivered while I was at work, and I had to sign for it, so I ended up collecting it from their offices in the middle of nowhere.

The next issue was that the Japan hotel would cost more than the credit I now had left on the card, so I had to arrange an interim payment to ensure the card would be accepted on my arrival in Japan (well, so I hope!).

The other organizational problem was my mobile phone (aarrrgh!!!). Because I hadn’t used it at all (surprise, surprise), it had got disconnected and was no longer working. It’s been reconnected now, but I am still eyeing it with intense suspicion.

All these problems, and I haven’t even considered the work-side of things!

Switzerland - A Trip to Rome

Last Supper - Time to go on a Diet!

Somebody asked me if I was really into Italy when I mentioned that I was going to be in Florence one weekend and then in Rome the next. It’s not really the case – or wasn’t at the time – it just so happened that the two trips were one after the other. I don’t know why I’ve neglected Italy before in my travels – now that I’ve been, I’m a fan!

Anyway, last weekend I went to Rome – I flew in on Friday and left Sunday. We landed late but I still decided to be adventurous and take the bus to the hotel rather than just hop in a taxi. It was a bit confusing because there were shuttle buses at one part of the airport and the bus station in another part, but fortunately I’d remembered correctly that I had to head for the bus station. I saw the bus leaving just as I got there. Drat! However, it was warm, even in the evening, so I didn’t mind sitting outside to wait for 45 minutes.

The bus was relatively easy, but finding the hotel afterwards was another matter. I’d mistakenly thought it would have a sign outside, but actually it was just a name on a doorbell (bizarre!). Moreover, it was number 81 instead of 83. It was a B&B with just four rooms and the woman comes in especially to greet you, but is otherwise not really there, so you help yourselves to coffee and tea etc whenever you like. Anyway, she was getting a bit stressed at my late arrival. It was a Friday night, I guess! But I got there in the end.

My friends arrived the next morning at 10am, so that gave me time to get up and have breakfast, feeling relieved that I hadn’t had to get their early-morning flight.

It was a repeat of Florence in terms of walking, only this time it was mostly flat and not up and down stairs all the time.

I’d booked tickets in advance for the Vatican. We somehow got a bit lost on the way there so we ended up walking right round the outside. Unlike the Uffizi in Florence, the tickets this time really did mean that we didn’t have to queue and it was surprisingly quick to get in. The tours had sold out, so we had only the audio guide, which was OK, but the major stops could have been labeled a bit more clearly (the individual items were fine).

I didn’t have any expectations about the Vatican. I’d kind of forgotten it was in Rome so booked the tickets at the last minute. But it was amazing – just everywhere you looked, the walls, the ceilings, the floors, the items on display, everywhere was just masterpieces. At the end, there was also a section with modern art (including a Dali).

I finally saw the entire picture of Plato and Aristotle walking and talking that featured so prominently on the cover of The Republic when I studied Philosophy at university; I hadn’t realized before that its origin was a painted wall of the Vatican.

The Sistine Chapel was awe-inspiring; the figures appeared to be hanging down from the ceiling; Michelangelo’s fresco of The Last Judgment also encompassed so much within it. But even in other parts of the Vatican, the ceilings were incredible, the tapestries enormous and detailed. I was a bit disappointed to see a tapestry with the Last Supper where they appeared to be eating a pig. I’m convinced that I’ve seen other pictures where they’re all eating chicken.

But just wandering around Rome is also an experience and it reminds me of Luxor to the extent that anyone who digs into the ground in Luxor finds ancient artifacts and the same holds in Rome. There are ruins everywhere.

You divert yourself down a narrow street in the old town, and then in the next square you’re confronted with an amazing building or the Spanish steps or the Trevi Fountain. It’s hard to stick to your itinerary because you just get sidetracked onto something else.

We also did a food and wine tour, where we learned the difference between an osteria and a trattoria and between a bruschetta and a crostini, as well as between a piazza and a campo. Artichokes were in season and we had some great double-fried (whoops!) ones in the Jewish district. I did also finally eat some gelato.

I’m now 7kg heavier than when I first returned to Switzerland; I think 3kg of that is from my Italian trips. It’s probably about time that I returned to Egypt.

Zurich - Culture

Florence - Made Up for My Cultural Laziness!

When living in Egypt, I’m rather aware that I’m quite a long way from anything cultural (unless I go to Luxor or Cairo). There used to be a cinema complex at Senzo Mall, but it closed before I got round to going to it (and if other people are the same as me, then that’s why it shut down!).

So, I did think I would enjoy having the opportunity to go to the theatre and museums when I returned to Zurich. However, at the same time I was aware that most of the enjoyment comes from knowing the option is there rather than me ever actually doing it.

So, predictably, I’ve done a few cultural things, but not much. There was the Long Night of the Museums, but as far as museums of any kind go, that’s really been about it. I haven’t even seen any art exhibitions, which I’d normally do maybe once in a while. I should really have grabbed the opportunity while I was here and I'm a bit annoyed with myself for being so lazy.

Nevertheless, I have been to one dance event (Ballet Revolucion) and also Art on Ice. Both events were a little unusual – Ballet Revolucion was unusual in that in addition to the dance (which was a clever mix of modern and classical ballet to modern music) there were live singers and live musicians. Every time I see dance, I wish I would go more often, as I love the combination of the music, costumes, choreography, and movement.

It may be for the same reasons that I enjoy Art on Ice. Each February, Art on Ice invites famous artists (this year it was the Jacksons and Jessie J) to sing while Olympic and World champion ice skaters perform to the music. A couple of comperes introduce the acts; there's usually also someone doing gymnastic feats as well in between the various elements. 

It can be quite hard to watch as it's all going on because you don’t know whether to pay attention to the singer or the skaters or even to which of the skaters. It’s an amazing event and a privilege to see these world-champions skating in front of you (for a price, of course, but look what you get for your money!). Again, the choreography also makes the show. The venue is huge and holds a packed audience of over 10,000 people. But it's in Switzerland, so it's very well organised.

Otherwise, I haven’t even been to the cinema that much. In fact, I bought myself a cinema card with enough money loaded on it to go to the cinema four times and I haven’t used it since the day I bought it (I went to see an Arabic film, but couldn’t understand any of the Arabic! There were subtitles, I hasten to add…). I also went to see the latest Bond film when it came out, a couple of Ladies Night films (Christmas with the Coopers, and The Intern) where the pull of a “free” prosecco beforehand was the main incentive. I did attend a couple of events at the Zurich Film Festival as well, so with that and the Film Fluss and Orange Cinema, maybe I didn’t do so badly. I still need to spend the credit on my cinema card, though!

I should maybe make the effort to go to an art gallery before I leave! Time, however, is running out…

Italy - A Trip to Florence

The Cathedral

Another thing I’d promised myself, in addition to visiting Idette, was to go to Florence while I was in Europe again. I’d been years ago on a work trip, but hadn’t really had the chance to see it other than to know that I’d like to go back. I’d planned to meet Geraldine at Florence airport on Wednesday night. I bumped into a former colleague (Julian) at the airport gate; he was just off to a congress in Florence. Zurich can be very small at times.

After my Dubai trip, travelling by economy seemed a bit of a let down. Nevertheless, my luck was in. Although my flight landed in Florence 15 minutes late, Geraldine’s flight from Gatwick came 30 minutes early, so in the end we arrived at around the same time and I didn’t have to hang around 45 minutes at Florence to wait for her as originally planned.

It was weird to see and hear Italian again. I’d learned it maybe 30 years ago for two years but haven’t really had much to do with the language since then. It’s beautiful and hearing it made me feel quite nostalgic. Watching all the expressive hand movements was also entertaining!

We managed to get a taxi without a problem, although I’m so used to taxi drivers in Hurghada that I found it difficult to believe that it was a fixed fare and that we didn’t have to haggle. It was the same on the way back – the hotel ordered a taxi for me, said it was “Barcelona 14” but instead a taxi named “Milano 11” came along saying he was the replacement. In Egypt, taxi drivers try tricks like this all the time to take the business for themselves, so I was sceptical. However, Geraldine persuaded me it would be fine (she wasn't leaving until the next day). It was and he did try to explain again (in Italian) that he was the replacement as he drove along, but by this time my fascination was drawn back to the fact that a fixed fare was flashing and I didn’t have to haggle.

I didn’t remember much of Florence at all. At the market, I suddenly remembered that I’d been disappointed when I’d tried to buy a leather jacket before, because I’d discovered it was just the shopkeeper behind the market stall who was actually selling them (I’d liked the idea of buying from the market rather than a shop at the time). I also remembered the queues at the Uffizi Gallery, which stopped me from going as I didn’t have the time. This time, we booked a tour in advance.

I hadn’t really appreciated how large the Uffizi was or just how many very famous pieces of art it contains. We had a two hour tour, although half an hour of this was still spent queuing, much to my surprise. I was also caught unawares at how fast the guide would move on to the next item (sometimes a few rooms away). I almost lost the group after the first painting not realizing that they’d all rushed on. Still, he needed to do this to have a chance of showing us the bare highlights. It was well worth having the tour.

Most of our time in Florence seemed to be spent climbing steps – up the cathedral dome (I hadn’t realized that a dome was difficult to build!), up the tower, up the floors of various museums, up and down the hills of the Boboli Gardens, up the hotel stairs… it was a holiday of aching calves!

I hadn’t realized that Florence was famous for its steaks; they were succulent and tender and among the best I’d tasted (and were also huge, often being sold by the kg). That will remain a highlight for me.

Statues adorned every corner of the city and I wondered whether the Florentines missed them when they visit other cities. The people were extraordinarily friendly and helpful; it was a joy to be there. Their favored mode of transport seemed to be motorbikes, which could wind their way through the narrow roads with no problem. There’d be whole rows of motorbikes parked by the side of the road. It’s not often these days that I find somewhere I think I’d like to live (I used to think this all the time about everywhere), but Florence would definitely be on the list.

The cathedral and baptistery were striking, as were the other buildings that mimicked their style on the front façade but not on the rest of the buildings. Museums abounded almost to the same extent as the statues (although, really, the statues won by far!).

And I have to say a quick word about the Davanzati Hotel where we stayed – it was great. They had a happy hour with free prosecco each evening (for the entire hour), so you could chat with other guests. It made it feel homely and sociable. I hope one day I can return!

Switzerland - A Work Trip to Dubai

Spot the Difference Switzerland vs Dubai - Ski Dubai in Mall of the Emirates

Well, after 10 months, my employer finally decided it was safe to let me out of the office and I was allowed to attend / present at a meeting in Dubai. Actually, it was budget restrictions that meant I couldn’t travel up to now, but it’s felt a bit like I’ve been caged up for all this time. As a contractor, I’m probably lowest priority, so I’m not complaining too hard.

Work rules are that if the flight is at least 6 hours, you can fly business class. The flight from Zurich to Dubai is 6 hours and 10 minutes …luck was with me, for a change.

It was my first time flying with Emirates, and my first time in a double-decker plane (what is life coming to!); I can recommend both.

The Emirates lounge in Zurich airport managed to serve all my favorite food, so it was hard to decide what to have (Zurich Geschnetzeltes, lamb curry, beef stroganoff, black forest gateau, lindor balls, mixed salted nuts). I had the lamb curry, the nuts, and the cake in the end and packed a lindor ball for the journey. Maybe it was just because I was hungry (I’d just come out from two meetings), but the food was fabulous.

The journey was smooth and it was good to see some Arabic in real life again (rather than just in my text book of stilted conversations!). It inspired me to spend some of the flight learning my vocabulary.

The good thing about flying with Emirates was that they have their own fast-track through security and customs in Dubai (I think it’s their “home” airport). The bad thing was that, having taken advantage of this, it was all to no avail because my pick-up wasn’t there waiting for me as I came into the arrivals hall.

After walking up and down the line of people holding placards for their visitors, waiting for about 15 minutes, and wondering if I needed to phone the UK emergency number (I could have got a free chauffeur service from Emirates; that would have worked better), he turned up. Apparently he’d been delayed by someone who’d had visa problems (I later found out that it was someone I knew!).

Anyway, my driver finally collected me but subsequently dropped me off at the wrong hotel. He was gone before I realized the error. This was at 1 am. My hotel wasn’t so far away (just the other side of the Mall of the Emirates), but I didn’t really want to be walking in the dark on my own in the early hours of the morning after a long journey. I trudged along the main road and the building works, my small suitcase rattling along behind me, and I finally arrived at my destination.

To my surprise, arriving in the warmth of Dubai, being confronted with the Arabic design in the hotels, and seeing the Arabic writing on all the posters made me feel a pang for Egypt. I wanted to be back in the sun, experience its haphazardness, be back among the people. On the other hand, Dubai is very wealthy (or at least it appears to be) and I could also sense myself slipping into the consumerism mentality. I dreamt of limitless wealth so that I too could have a huge diamond on my finger, fly to all the exotic locations, and stay in the best hotels.

It was great to meet some colleagues face-to-face at long last and to forge some new contacts. Several people were there who I’d had teleconferences with on multiple occasions; by the end it felt a bit bizarre to think I hadn’t met them before. My one-hour talk got cut to around 20 minutes due to the meeting running behind schedule, but people still clapped in the right places.

The agenda was full-on with dinners planned every evening with less than an hour between the end of the day’s work and going to dinner, leaving little time for reading emails etc. They’d somehow managed to get a deal for most of the meals where there was limitless alcohol. It’s the first time I’ve been to a work event where I’ve been actively encouraged to drink as much as I possibly can.

Although I’m a Brit, and was therefore expected to fulfil the obligation of drinking a lot, I’ve been living in a “dry” country for 18 months and in Switzerland wine is served in only 100 ml portions at a time, so I’m really a bit out of practice. I ate far too much (the food was also limitless, it seemed), so it’s time for diet and exercise (unfortunately, my stomach is craving more food now!). I’ve returned with a cold, it appears, too. Those are the dangers of work trips!

The Netherlands - Renewing a Friendship

Idette and Fiona on Fiona's Visit in Feb 2016!

There were a few things that I’d promised myself to do while I was back in Europe and one of them was to visit Idette in the Netherlands.

I think I’ve taken it a bit for granted, to be honest, but when people ask me who Idette is, and I explain that she’s a penfriend that I’ve had for over 35 years, the reaction I get is one of astonishment. I’d like to think that it’s because people think I can’t possibly be that old, but it’s more likely to be the whole concept of keeping up correspondence with someone for that amount of time.

A lot happens in 35 years; we started off writing letters with pen and paper and sending them via the post – remember those days?

If I remember correctly, I think it started off as one of those things you do at school (maybe that should be in the past tense, as I very much doubt it happens any more). I seem to recall that when I was maybe 15 years old a list was passed round at school and you could volunteer to start writing letters to someone in a foreign country. I can’t remember how the people were paired up – I have a vague feeling that I saw a list of names of people who were interested and where they came from and I just thought that Holland sounded interesting. And so it began.

Thinking about it, it was a pretty good school initiative as it was before plane travel was common, and before the internet, and so it was fairly unusual for anyone to know someone from abroad. Back then, the concept of writing to someone living in a different country was extraordinarily exciting and exotic. I can remember feeling thrilled at the idea.

Idette came over to visit me in our teenage years, and I also went over to visit her (this wasn’t a school thing; it was just due to being penfriends). I was a teenager at the time and most of my memories are of things I’m a bit ashamed about (refusing to speak German to her family, working during the summer holiday when she came over to visit), although none of it was badly intentioned; it was just ignorance and lack of thought on my part. I think I’ve learned a bit since then!

Apparently, Idette also visited me when I was in Cologne in the early 80s on my year abroad while at University, but I have no memory of this at all. It’s quite scary. And since then we haven’t seen each other, so that's thirty years gone by. But we've kept in contact, changing from letters to email as technology developed and nowadays mostly via facebook.

Idette really needs to take the credit for keeping the correspondence going all these years, and I’m so glad she persevered with me. Nevertheless, this was going to be the year where I would visit – I flew across this last weekend as the Netherlands are just a short flight from Zurich.

And I had a fabulous time. It was strange to see her again after all those years. The family picked me up from the airport and her daughter was driving the car (her daughter is old enough to drive a car!!). Her husband was so pleasant, too, and Idette and I chatted away in the back of the car on the journey to her house. I felt no awkwardness; it was just lovely.

I was welcomed into her family; it was her son’s birthday on the Sunday (happy birthday again, Bas!) – he was just turning twenty. Fabienne (her daughter) was in a serious relationship, so I met her boyfriend as well, since he was pretty much part of the family, too. And I patted the dog, a beagle, who was just adorable. 

We pretty much just sat and ate and chatted for the entire time, but I can’t describe how good it was to catch up. They fed me on “Bolsse Bollen” (spelled wrongly; I’ve never seen this written – they are like huge chocolate profiteroles), which I remembered absolutely loving from when I visited her before as they are so delicious. Idette remembered doughnuts in Oxford, so it seems that food creates lasting memories (any memory experts out there?). Having said that, I’d completely forgotten that she too was a non-cheese eater (as was also her husband), which just shows how well I choose my friends.

My food memories from this time will be an onion sauce that tastes quite sweet and goes beautifully with "Flemish" chips (thick chips, not thin French fries). To my surprise, the sauce came out of the squeezy bottle in a yellow colour. And then on my morning bread I tried some speculoos spread. I knew the biscuits (which actually I don't like that much), but not the spread. It was also good; maybe a bit sweeter than the biscuits, but a similar flavour. And apparently the Dutch put sprinkles on their bread - yes, chocolate sprinkles! Isn't that weird? I'd have taken a photo, but I was too busy eating.

The “children”, who are adults, were amazing – so considerate, polite, and such good people. I wish I’d had their maturity at that age (or even now!). I’d love to know how Idette has managed this miracle. It was extremely rewarding to see everyone so content and in such a good place.

Anyway, I'm now determined to be a better correspondent and I'm filled with an inner happiness at seeing how well everything’s turned out for Idette and her family.